I know a lot of people love the Infinity and Polk speakers for easy, higher fidelity than stock speaker setup. The kickers on the factory non-Sony setup where decent but I had very little to no bass but pretty decent mid/highs. Makes it super easy to install and although not an apple to apple comparisons, but the Focals are now on a 5-channel amp with a LC1 EQ and it sounds borderline perfect to me. FORD ESCORT BRAND NEW BRAND NEW 1984 FORD LTD 1984 THUNDERBIRD BRAND NEW RT. For what its worth, I went from a factory non-Sony unit to a set of Kicker CS 6.5 components (91db) in the front and Kicker CS 6.5 coaxial in the rears and ended up pulling those out and going with a set of Focal ISS 165 fronts and matching rears because the Focals up front where a 6x9 with a tweeter and the nice compact crossovers built inline with the cables. Metra also makes various speaker adapters if you decide to change the size of the speakers in the door. There's a nice plug and play harness for our trucks that Metra makes for the door speakers so I'd consider that if you want super easy install there. I'm not sure how much juice the Sony factory amp has but I'm assuming it's more than the non-factory unit. If anything, you may want to consider looking for a set of speakers that are 90+db in rating to get more "volume" out of the factory unit/amp. Which option above will produce the best sound? Am I missing any affordable / simple options? I am not an audiophile, just want to get a cleaner sound from the stereo, I do not see adding a processor and amp at a later time. The way I see it I have 3 optionsġ) component speakers, run the door speaker off the existing wiring, wire the tweeter with the crossover with the factory tweeter power as the crossover inputĢ) component speaker, put the crossover in the door for the woofer with the door speaker power as the crossover input and buy a set of base blockers for the tweeterģ) buy a 2 way speaker for the door and disconnect the pillar tweeter I want to replace the factory front speakers but do not want to cut or tap into any wires (cutting the wire to the tweeter in the pillar OK) and with the way wires are run from the body to the door, I do not want to attempt to run a wire from the door to the body. That part of it probably took me 10 minutes once I decided where I wanted to remove the material from.I put this over in the stereo forum but did not receive any responses. I think I used a little exacto saw blade to cut the little kerfs so I could snap the pieces. Like I said the best thing is to score the plastic with a sharp X-Acto knife and a straight edge., Then if you saw into it a quarter of an inch or so to where you can flex those parts they will snap on the line you scored. But that will depend on the depth of your head unit. Upgrade sync f150 touchscreen touch navigation infotainment2009-2013 ford f150/250/350 12.1 tesla-style android radio stereo gps Upgrade stereo.F150 install. I did not cut anything out behind my radio. Stereo f150 aftermarket dash f350 f450 autoradio harnessFord f150 stereo replacement F150 stereo upgrade ford truckF150 stereo. In the video above the guy removed a bunch from the top I don't think he needed to I think you see that after he put the radio in. I recall only removing about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. And so you should line it up with the trim plate to see do you need to remove it from the top or bottom. What you don't want to do is remove more of the mounting frame than you need to. And you don't have to because it will sit in there without that with the trim plate holding it in. If you're not using the clips that you have to release with little tools. What does it take to put the stock radio back in after these mods?Nothing you slide it into place. I noticed most of the radios say they require permanent modifications to the dash, and iirc, they indicate they are in the back.
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